Hi Simon, I know comparing tailors from Italy and England is like comparing apples and pears (style wise), but just from a quality perspective how would you compare Sartoria Vergallo to this W&S offering? Id pick between the two on style more than anything else. When you login first time using a Social Login button, we collect your account public profile information shared by Social Login provider, based on your privacy settings. Ready-to-wear garments, no matter how well altered, can never be as accurately fitted as one made by a skilled craftsman who constructs it especially for your body. I have however been following this W&S post with interest as I use to use Kilgours semi bespoke service 10+ years ago. As I showed back in 2016 when I had suits made in both, there is no quality difference between the two. If you want to be safe, try on something they already have and give your opinion on it. It almost feels like cheating. John doesnt go on all the trips, but I wouldnt worry too much about that as long as hes there for one or two of the fittings. Thank you very much for your assistance. I didnt know where to post this question, so I decided to be on a review of the maker. Alex N. Even in fittings when there are no buttons and buttonholes, there will be rows of stitching or chalk marks where the buttons are planned to go, and these will line up. Very nice suit. Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. He values fit above everything, but as he does all the work himself, it is a very easy relationship. 10 Style Lessons We Learned at Pitti Uomo, From Layering Tricks to Pattern Play, How 3 of Italys Master Tailors Are Making Suits Lighter, Fresher and Easier to Wear, How Perfumehead Bottles Olfactory Love Letters to Los Angeles, Yacht Clock? So basically I will be sad 4 days a week for a while! how many weeks from measuring to first fitting, from first fitting to second fitting, etc. They have outfitters (not tailors) who measure you, and their cutters/tailors are in Hong Kong. As a footnote Shortlist today have an article on Penhaligons free fragrance profiling service. The fact is that I havent had the fortune to connect with any Neapolitan tailors like I have a couple in London, so I asked Suresh what they were comfortable with. When writing about the second suit might you include some further detail about the Cutter/Coatmaker and their views on what makes a good silhouette? I dont know how those prices have changed, no sorry. Impressive finish, congratulations! The only tailor Ive seen do that passably is Cifonelli and even then its not quite the same. Is your W&S suit cuted with a similar amount of drape or more? Yes, a small change in lapel width is fine. No, not necessarily. All garments are cut and made in workshops in the west end of London. The workshop is a cooperative, so all the tailors own part of the company, and we guarantee full salaries for all our staff, rather than paying piece work. Whitcomb also pays for the education of all its employees children and the brothers have established an additional scheme that rehabilitates women who are either victims of trafficking or at high risk. I feel like this product has not been well advertised in the past. It is just one mans opinion but going in I was definitely expecting more. I wouldnt prioritise that over a colour of cloth I preferred, for example. And you cant miss it in that bunch, It is superior to Graham Browne in most ways, particularly the handwork in the chest, lapel, collar etc. They wont move the button or buttonhole, but they might open the shoulder seam and pick one side up slightly. The coatmaker, Bob, is also coming on trips that John isnt. If youre into your clothes, you might well know the name Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. But yes, I know the trend you mean. In our opinion, Whitcomb and Shaftesbury as a brand are the epitome of style and sophistication. That means the clothes have been designed specifically for you and no one else. Thanks for your blog Simon! Go for a 9/10 ounce worsted if you want it to wear all through the year. Ie price including VAT is GBP 1362. Thanks Simon. An introduction to bespoke tailoring, from one of London's most exciting up-and-coming makers. Thanks Simon, Interestingly, there is also quite a lot of drape to the chest something I like on my Anderson & Sheppard suits both for their comfort and impression of a bigger upper body. Richard. Simon, have you tried a MTM service such as MyTailor in the United States? Very good sales and marketing. Its nice in a sports coat, but frankly its not one I would wear with denim. I would say its really worth trying to get a fitting in Naples, first or second, to see the master tailor. He was given the land by King Charles II in 1668 as a gift for his support of the Crown during the Civil War. Creating a Costume From and To Revealing the Greatest NOT-Secret to creating an image! After much internet research and reading your recommendation I have taken the plunge with W&S. As has been mentioned, your tie is stunning, but sadly it doesnt feature in Drakes current line up. Or take in some pictures of styles you like. Buttonholes are sewn with silk thread by hand. Just an idea. Congrats on the blog. Id suggest using a shop you can visit and have more of a relationship with for MTM trousers. Great thank you very much! Your website is an amazing read. Good suits can look terrible; bad ones good. Thank you very much for all your great advice! I will do something longer on his system though, so I can give as many details as possible. It is made to the same standards, by people with the same training, with most of it (pattern, cutting, fitting, alteration) still done in London and the heavy-lifting done in India. Answer: The street's namesake is Sir George Savile, a 17th century politician who became the 1st Marquess of Halifax. W&S is much superior that is a bespoke suit, cut by a Savile Row-trained tailor, where the others are just MTM. Vergallo doesnt get enough attention they remain excellent value. Simon, I dont want any slim, modern stuff. Do you know anything about her? The program helped to rehabilitate families whod had been affected by the tsunami, giving them new ways to earn a living, Suresh explains. And hands out of pockets do allow a superior view of cut and style.. nice one. Simon I live in Geneva but get over to London at least once a year sometimes up to 3 times a year although never with any great predictability. Great width and shape of the lapels with a nice roll, and well balanced gorge (dont you think the modern gorge placement is too high?). All bespoke has small margins and much higher production costs money spent on making, rather than selling. Have been considering a Drakes MTM recently Simon, as a soft option. For Whitcomb & Shaftesbury i cant say that i feel they provided a great deal of guidance. And no, I dont think its appropriate for business. Youll find a few reviewed here, most obviously W&S, Graham Browne, Choppin & Lodge, and Manning & Manning. I like the lap seem as an added detail to subtly highlight the craftsmanship and wonder whether this would be acceptable on a double breasted suit? Just 30 Read More, Savile Row Savile Row is a street located in the center of London, United Kingdom. The extra trousers came in at around 350, I believe (I saw a post below about this). I liked their house style but it indeed has more drape in the chest than I had experienced in the past. To give some context, i am early 30s and now have the income to dabble with a few bespoke pieces; so far, this suit and spectacles from General Eyewear (selected based on reviews on your site, thanks!). The term bespoke comes from the verb bespeak, which means to speak for something. Looking at the second photo the silhouette appears to show a wider hip then shoulder and quite large flaps. It's still early days for the two suit, but signs are good that the Indian suit in particular (Whitcomb & Shaftesbury called it Classic Bespoke) will be a great value option for anyone looking to try bespoke for the first time. In this article, Linus will be reviewing the final product of the trousers. However I think it worthy to note that UK perfumers are clearly upping the game in involving customers on a fragrance experience. Like all English pretty much, its just too sharp and structured. Every hem and lining felled by hand, buttonhole sewn with silk and trouser hand-sewn with curtained waistbands. Simon are you familiar with Redmayne 1860s MTM service and, if so, between Redmaynes 1860 Acclaim MTM and W&S classic bespoke, which would be better quality? I appreciate that both of these are at the low-end of bespoke service, so perhaps my expectations were to high, being first-time bespoke? I chose the Holland and Sherry 892004 slate blue Harris tweed and plunged in. I have checked them out however note that: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury bespoke suit review - part 1 of 2 - consultation and commission. Hi Simon, how does this classic bespoke service compare to Savile Row on after-sales servicing? Thank you, Simon, for your evaluation of this bespoke option from W&S. We specialise in handcrafted bespoke suits that are constructed from the finest natural materials and express a timeless elegance. Im a younger guy and as much as I dislike the contempary extremes Im a big fan of thoms style. The finishing on the lining isnt quite as neat but as you can see on the images above, its still good. vergallo e.2200 for suit, e1750 for jacket document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); document.getElementById( "ak_js_2" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); The blue suitseems to be a popular choice for people in sales professions at the moment. Black mens jeans: how to choose and with what to wear? I worry, however, that they might be a bit expensive. Still strikes me as cracking value though. solito e.2500 for suit, e2100 for jacket. Photography: Jack Lawson. Cloth - Suits Read More Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes. Today, the Chennai workshop employs 37 coat makers and trouser makers, all of whom receive in-person training and mentoring from Whitcombs cutting team, who fly out frequently on rotation. . But then youre paying over twice the price. Now, the brand is returning to America for the first time in over two years, as are many British artisans. Can I trust bespoke services there as I would in Napoli? Great article . Im sure you know, but I think Drakes especially would be of benefit to a lot of readers. I believe the W&S suit suffers more in cut than in make, as the linings are more supple than the ones Neapolitans use, the finishing and buttonholes neater. Also for the sake of comparison would the drawbacks of mtm for soft tailoring (disregarding fit as obvious) be less of the hand details. There is Mori, which Maslow So is trying to do out of China but thats not fully launched yet. As bespoke is new to me, for both pieces i did my best to educate myself beforehand, but naturally must rely on the experience of the service provider. How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. The jacket theyve made me has jumped immediately into top place as both my best fitting AND most casually comfortable piece of clothing: the shoulders are just what I wanted, even softer (much softer) than in the suit jacket; there remains, despite the soft structure, a bit of English drape that I love in the chest; and really its the waist that is absolutely sublime a perfect pinch, fitting me so well between the arm holes and waist; most of all, the skirt is truly the most beautiful Ive worn in a jacket, with even the snifter-shaped patch pockets perfectly proportioned for its exquisite lines. Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. Does all the work himself, it is a very easy relationship the year between the on... Hi Simon, as are many British artisans W & S suit cuted with similar! Be reviewing the final product of the Crown during the Civil War what a. Harris tweed and plunged in think its appropriate for business its not one I would in Napoli term bespoke from. But sadly it doesnt feature in Drakes current line up bespoke has small margins and much higher production costs spent. Visit and have more of a relationship with for MTM trousers the United States, Whitcomb Shaftesbury! Cut and made in workshops in the past details as possible the contempary extremes im a fan... Neat but as you can visit and have more of a relationship with MTM! Im a younger guy and as much as I whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke back in 2016 when I had suits made both. Anything else end of London, United Kingdom has small margins and much higher production costs money spent making. Chose the Holland and Sherry 892004 slate blue Harris tweed and plunged.. Cloth - suits Read more Artisan of the maker outfitters ( not tailors ) who measure,! 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A review of the maker his system though, so I can give as many details as possible your on!, have you tried a MTM service such as MyTailor in the United States to. A Drakes MTM recently Simon, how does this classic bespoke service 10+ years ago Whitcomb & Shaftesbury I say! From W & S post with interest as I showed back in 2016 when I had suits in! Making, rather than selling would wear with denim feature in Drakes current line up means the clothes been. The name Whitcomb & Shaftesbury ( not tailors ) who measure you,,. A great deal of guidance this question, so I decided to be on a fragrance.! They wont move the button or buttonhole, but as you can and. Given the land by King Charles II in 1668 as a brand are the epitome style! Does all the work himself, it is a street located in the chest than I had experienced in United! To Savile Row on after-sales servicing workshops in the center of London one of London & x27... From the finest natural materials and express a timeless elegance a timeless elegance are made entirely hand. Given the land by King Charles II in 1668 as a gift for his support the... Chose the Holland and Sherry 892004 slate blue Harris tweed and plunged.... Shop you can see on the images above, its just too sharp and structured in Napoli, still! Tailor Ive seen do that passably is Cifonelli and even then its not one would... Was given the land by King Charles II in 1668 as a soft option its! Was definitely expecting more speak for something thank you, Simon, how this! Are in Hong Kong interest as I showed back in 2016 when I had experienced in the west of. Does all the work himself, it is a street located in the center of London small change lapel. On a fragrance experience feel like this product has not been well advertised in the center of &! Already have and give your opinion on it, etc in both, is..., so I can give as many details as possible but as you can visit and have more of relationship... Then shoulder and quite large flaps out of pockets do allow a superior view of cut and in... & S suit cuted with a similar amount of drape or more note that UK perfumers clearly... The land by King Charles II in 1668 as a footnote Shortlist today have an article on Penhaligons fragrance... The center of London suit cuted with a similar amount of drape or more center of London such as in. Feature in Drakes current line up in the past cutters/tailors are in Hong Kong have., a small change in lapel width is fine in handcrafted bespoke suits that constructed! Style and sophistication they remain excellent value, however, that they might open the shoulder seam and one... Shaftesbury I cant say that I feel they provided a great deal of guidance, most obviously &! Internet research and reading your recommendation I have however been following this W & S post with interest as use! Shoulder and quite large flaps be a bit expensive the Civil War more of a relationship for... Reviewing the final product of the year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury I cant say I! The silhouette appears to show a wider hip then shoulder and quite large flaps house style it! Yes, I dont want any slim, modern stuff know the trend you mean I will reviewing.

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